Footwear Recommendations

Upper Stiching: Preferred

Operation	Brand Name	Needle thread		Under thread Belbob/Hembob***
		Tex	Size	Tex	Size
Upper Seams	nylbond	105, 70	30, 40	92, 69, 46	92, 69, 46
Upper Seams: *MDCS and twin needle	nylbond SLB**	105, 70	30, 40	92, 69, 46	92, 69, 46
Upper Seams: Water-repellent footwear	nylbond antiwick	105, 70	30, 40	92, 69	30, 40
Decorative Seams	brio	-	1.0mm, 1.2mm	-	0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm
Buckle and Bow Attachment; Labels	nylbond	45	60	45	60
Decorative, Functional	nylbond	135	20	138	20

Upper Stitching: Alternatives

Operation	Brand Name	Needle thread		Under thread Belbob/Hembob***
		Tex	Size	Tex	Size
Upper Seams	nymo	105, 70	31, 41	92, 69	31, 41
Upper Seams: Water-repellent footwear	nymo antiwick	10,570	31, 41	92, 69	31, 41
Upper Seams	gral	92, 69	30, 40	92, 69	30, 40
Upper Seams: Water-repellent footwear	gral antiwick	92, 69	30, 40	92, 69	30, 40
Upper Seams	dabond	92, 69	30, 40	92, 69	30, 40
Upper Seams	terko satin	120, 80	25, 36	120, 80	25, 36
Decorative Seams	nylbond	400	8	400	8
Upper Seams: *MDCS and twin needle	lapwing	92, 69	30, 40	92, 69	30, 40

* MDCS : Multi - Directional Computer Stitching ** SLB: Specially Lubricated and Bonded *** Belbob: Pre-wound bobbin with core but without sidewalls Hembob: Pre-wound bobbin without core and without sidewalls.

Moccasin Stitching: Preferred

Operation	Brand Name	Needle thread		Type of Moccasin
		Tex	Size
Upper to apron - American moccasin hand sewing	cherokee	735, 1010, 1135	5, 6, or 7 cord	True moccasin
Upper to apron - hand sewing	classic	0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 mm dia		True moccasin
Machine stitching of upper to apron, sidewall and sole seams	match	0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia		Moccasin design
Upper seams	nylbond	70	40	Moccasin design

Moccasin Stitching: Alternatives

Operation	Brand Name	Needle thread
		Tex	Size
Upper to apron seam	Barbour's linen	0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia
Upper seams	dabond	69	40

Sole Sewing: Preferred

Operation	Needle thread			Under thread
	Brand Name	Tex	Size	Brand Name	Tex	Size
Machine sewn moccasin, box-sole seams	match	0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia		match	0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia
Decorative seams	brio	0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia		brio	0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia
Blake, Rapid, sidewall and Opanka seams; Goodyear	corus	0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 mm dia		team	270, 450	6, 10
Chain stitch inseaming	corus	1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6 mm dia
In sole stitching	corus	0.8, 1.0, 1.2 mm dia		team	270, 450	6, 10
String lasting	gral	1,100	3

Sole Sewing: Alternatives

Operation	Needle thread			Under thread
	Brand Name	Tex	Size	Brand Name	Tex	Size
Welt, decorative stitching	gral	960, 675	3, 4
Sidewall, outsole, Opanka	nylbond	400	8	nylbond	345	8
Chain stitch inseaming	aptan	700, 600	4, 5
Chain stitch inseaming	corus	1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6 mm dia
Chain stitch inseaming	Barbour's linen: yellow label	290 to 1430	18/3c to 18/12c
Chain stitch inseaming	gral	180 to 940	TU6 to TU30
Chain stitch inseaming	terko satin	270, 338	8, 10
Blake, Goodyear	Barbour's linen: yellow label	385 to 1430	18/4c to 18/12c	Barbour's linen: yellow label	385 to 1430	18/4c to 18/12c

Specific recommendations for thread and needle selection as well as accurate thread consumption figures and on site technical support can be obtained by contacting your local Coats office

These recommendations and consumption figures are intended as a guide and are given in good faith but without warranty or liability on the company or it's employees.