Gabardine
A distinctive 45° or 63° warp face left hand twill if single plied yarns are used or right hand twill of a two ply yarn is used in the weft. Gabardines are made from any fibre not just cotton.
Galatea
A sturdy, serviceable, warp-effect, five-shaft, left-hand, twill-weave fabric, frequently cotton or a cotton blend, used for children’s playclothes.
Garment-dyed
Process in which the garment is stocked in an ecru or bleached colour, then instant-dyed in a variety of shades, depending on the market requests and fashion whims. The technique also gives the garment a special, characteristic look.
Garment Overdyeing
A process in which the garment is dyed after it has been sewn.
Garment Wash
Process of industrially washing garments after they have been manufactured to enhance sizing. It also softens and pre-shrinks.
Gassing
A finishing process that reduces fuzz and produces a sheen by rapidly passing cotton thread over an open flame. See Singeing.
Gathers
A series of small folds of fabric, controlled and held in place by stitches to provide visible fullness.
Gauze
A thin sheer-woven fabric in which each filling yarn is encircled by two warp yarns twisted around each other, gauze is similar to cheesecloth. It may be made of silk, cotton, wool, or man-made fibres. Cotton gauze is used primarily for surgical dressings.
Georgette
A fine, light-weight, open texture fabric, usually in a plain weave, made from crepe yarns.
Gimp
A thick thread used to support and raise the buttonhole stitching in an eyelet buttonhole machine.
Gingham
A woven fabric characterized by a block or check effect produced by weaving in dyed yarns at fixed intervals in both the warp and the filling.
Ginning
The industrial process where seeds are taken out of picked cotton.
Glacé
A lustrous, glossy effect imparted to fabrics by finishing.
Glazing
A finishing process which produces a smooth, highly polished, or lustrous surface on a fabric such as chintz. The fabric is treated with starch, glue, paraffin, or shellac, then friction calendered. Synthetic resins are used for a more permanent finish. A shiny appearance produced unintentionally, e.g., by pressing at excessive temperature.
Glen Plaid
Woven design for worsted suiting that is named after Glen Urquhart, the Scottish valley of Invernessshire. It is a houndstooth pattern (a trapezoidal shape) that marries woven-in horizontal and vertical lines (with light contrasting colour) to create an overplaid.
Good Middling
The name for the best grade of cotton.
Gossypium
The generic name of the cotton plant.
Gossamer Rayon
A fine, semi-sheer rayon from Japan with a crinkly texture. A heat process is used to set the crinkles into this ultralight fabric.
Gray Goods / Loomstate / Greige / Grey
Words used to describe fabric that is just off the loom, woven but unfinished in any way.
Greige (grey) Thread
Unfinished thread. It has been spun, twisted and wound to the desired thickness and texture, but has not yet been dyed, bonded or lubricated.
Grenadine
A fine, loosely woven fabric in leno weave made with dyed filling yarns and having a clipped dobby design. A silk cord constructed by twisting together several twisted strands. An open, lace-like tie fabric frequently of man-made fibres.
Grey Filling
Weft, or filling, yarn that is produced from a blend of ecru and dyed cotton fibre. Originally conceived as a way to recycle discards from dyed warp yarns, and therefore save money, grey filling is being adopted by some manufacturers today as part of the revival of original looks, particularly in lightweight denims (7 to 11 oz.)
Grommet
An eyelet of firm material to strengthen or protect an opening.
Grosgrain
A heavy fabric with prominent ribs, rosgrain has a dressy appearance and is used in ribbons, vestments, and ceremonial cloths.
Gusset
Triangular inserts in sleeve seams to widen and strengthen.