1x1 Rib
Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.
2-Way Zipper
A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction.
Abrasion
Wet processors (laundries) try to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasion. Pumice stones are most frequently used. See Stone Washing.
The act or result of rubbing during laundering or normal wear. Synthetic threads generally have superior abrasion resistance than cellulose threads.
Acetate / Triacetate
The oldest man-made fibre and the first one made using tree pulp. Acetate is manufactured by treating purified cellulose refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp with acetic anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. The resultant product, is precipitated, purified, dried, and dissolved in acetone to prepare the spinning solution. After filtration, the highly viscous solution is extruded through spinnerets into a column of warm air in which the acetone is evaporated, leaving solid continuous filaments of cellulose acetate. These filaments are simultaneously twisted and wound onto a bobbin in the form of yarn which is ready for use without further chemical processing. In the manufacture of staple fiber, the filaments from numerous spinnerets are combined into tow form, crimped, cut to the required length, and packaged in bales.
Characteristics: Acetate fibers are fast-drying, wrinkle and shrinkage resistant, crisp or soft in hand depending upon the end use, and luxurious in appearance. It has fair absorbency, high luster, (silk like) poor abrasion resistance, poor fastness to the sun and low strength which reduces 30% when wet.
End Uses: Include lingerie, dresses, blouses, robes, other apparel, linings, draperies, bedspreads, upholstery, carpets, umbrellas, formed fabrics, and cigarette filters.
Acid Dyes
Dyes used to dye Nylon threads. There are two classes of acid dyes that are used, premetalized and regular acid dyes. Premetalized dyes have superior color fastness characteristics but can produce a limited color range.
Acid Wash
(Also known as Marble Wash, Moon Wash or Snow Wash) Patented by the Italian Candida Laundry company in 1986, the finish gave indigo jeans sharp contrasts. The process was achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create contrast.
Acrylic
Fibres produced by two basic methods of spinning (extrusion), dry and wet. In the dry spinning method, material to be spun is dissolved in a solvent. After extrusion through the spinnaret, the solvent is evaporated, producing continuous filaments which later may be cut into desired staple, if desired. In wet spinning, the spinning solution is extruded into a liquid coagulating bath to form filaments which are drawn, dried, and processed. Synthetic fibre that is made with just the right combination of coal, air, water, petroleum and limestone. The fibre has fair affinity to dye, and pills easily.
Characteristics: Because acrylic fibres are thermoplastic, fabrics may be heat-set for wrinkle resistance and to provide permanency to pleats. Acrylic fabrics have low moisture absorbency and dry relatively quickly. In general, acrylic fibres are resistant to the degrading effects of ultraviolet rays in sunlight and to a wide range of chemicals and fumes. They provide warmth in fabrics which are lightweight, soft, and resilient. Acrylic fibres have relatively poor flame resistance compared with other fibres.
Some acrylic fabrics, particularly knit types, approximate the hand of fine wool. Because of the composition and cross section of the fibre, fabrics made together have a high bulk to weight ratio. This is further enhanced with the so-called “high bulk” spun yarns.
End Uses: Include floor coverings, blankets; and apparel uses such as suiting, pile fabrics, coats, collars, linings, dresses, and shirts.
Action Stretch
A term applied to fabrics and garments which give and recover in both the length- and widthwise direction.
Aesthetics
Refers to the appearance of the thread in the finished seam that can be affected by contrast stitching, color matching, the sheen of the thread and the size of the thread.
Affinity
Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or combine, such as fibre and dyestuff.
After treatment
A term which is normally used in relation to processes carried out after dyeing or printing to improve fastness properties and/or to produce normal shades.
Air Entangled or Locked (or Locked Filament) Thread
A type of continuous filament thread with fibers entangled by high-pressure air from an air jet, rather than twisted by machine. Air-entangled threads can be manufactured by either parallel-interface, or the core-and-effect method, which produces better sewing thread.
Air Entangled Yarns
See Compacted Yarns.
Air Jet Texturing
See Texturing.
Airplane Fabric
A plain, tightly woven, water-repellent fabric traditionally made of mercerized cotton. During World War I, the fabric was treated with a cellulose acetate dope and used to cover the wings, tail, and fuselage of airplanes. Today, similar fabrics made from nylon or polyester/cotton blends are used in rainwear and sportswear.
Air Splice
A means of joining ends of yarn together using high pressure air. This produces a union not as thick as a weaver’s knot so a better quality product is produced. Air splices will sew through the needle of a lockstitch machine without causing a sewing interruption.
Alternating Twist
A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted in the yarn by means of a special heating arrangement.
Antique
A denim finish achieved through sanding and washing, which gives an aged look to the garment. Antique is also a type of ring denim in which the yarn is strongly uneven.
Anti-Pill
A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear.
Anti-wicking
A thread finish (Quarpel) that prevents a liquid from migrating through a needle hole. It is commonly applied to threads used in tents, awnings, tea bags and boots.
Appliqué
Comes from the French appliquer, which means “to put on”. A technique where material that is cut out and sewn or embroidered and fastened to a fabric. It can be used with woven fabrics, knitted fabrics or a combination of both. The art of hand appliqué covers a wide spectrum, from primitive folk art to the sophistication of Baltimore Album quilts—elegant appliquéd quilts from the mid-1800s that were highly sought after and considered an honor to receive.
Aramid Fibre
A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming material is a long chain synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages attached directly to two aromatic rings.
Aramid fibres exhibit low flammability, high strength, and high modulus without melting.
Fabrics made from aramid fibers maintain their integrity at high temperatures; such fabrics are used extensively in hot-air filters. Aramids are also found in protective clothing, ropes and cables, and tire cord. (e.g., Nomex® and Kevlar®)
Argyle
A pattern consisting of diamond shapes of different colors knit in a fabric.
Authentic
A finishing process similar to vintage, using stonewashing or a cellulose enzyme wash, with or without bleach, for an old and worn look. Also a type of ring fabric in which the ring yarn has evident slubs.
Authentic Fit
Sits below the waistline and follows the contours of hips and thighs with its slightly fitted approach.
Azoic Dyes
Azoic dyes are insoluble pigments formed within the fibre by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base.